Passing deviations & re-anchors

Where the direction of the ropes needs to be changed slightly — either to avoid abrasion or to afford the technician more efficient access — a deviation is installed.

Single deviation

Ascent

1. Ascend until level with the deviation anchor point.
2. Place the ropes below your chest ascender and back-up device into the spare carabiner of the deviation.
3. Once in place, pull yourself into the deviation anchor point sufficiently to remove the original deviation carabiner, and gently lower out using the trailing ropes below.
4. Continue with the ascent.

Descent

Carry out the above operation in reverse.

Double deviations

Passing re-anchors

Where the direction of the ropes needs to be changed and it is not practicable to use a deviation either to avoid abrasion or to afford the operative more efficient access, a re-anchor should be installed — a double anchor point part-way down the drop into which the ropes are originally knotted and attached.

This manoeuvre can be treated as a rope-to-rope transfer in both ascent and descent. Your instructor will demonstrate.