Large re-anchor or stuck-in-loop rescue

For a casualty on the far side of a large re-anchor, utilise the rope-to-rope transfer method.

If stuck in four ropes (i.e. the loop)

Approach from the casualty's ascent side where possible.

1. Rescuer ascends ropes to top and changes into descender.
2. Rescuer attaches short and long cow's tail onto loop ropes.
3. Rescuer descends using the loop as a tensioned rope to the casualty.
4. Rescuer removes the casualty's hand ascender and gets as close to the casualty as possible using a gri-gri.
5. Rescuer attaches cow's tail to the casualty's central D-ring below the loop.
6. Rescuer attaches a short connection between the rescuer's descender carabiner and the casualty's sternal D-ring below the loop.
7. Rescuer places an ascender (minus cow's tail and foot loop) on the working rope above their descender. Add a pulley to the hand ascender. The control rope from the descender is run through the pulley. Rescuer places his hand ascender on the rope emerging from the pulley (shorten the foot loop by clipping it back to itself). Rescuer raises the casualty by standing in his foot loop.
8. As the rescuer stands, the rope is pulled through the descender — both rescuer and casualty ascend. Rescuer removes the casualty's chest ascender.
9. Rescuer unlocks the casualty's descender and lowers across the loop.
10. Rescuer climbs the rope through the descender until the casualty's descender has become loose. Once off the loop, rescuer places the control rope through an extra carabiner below the descender on the harness for added friction. Rescuer descends to ground with the casualty.